Wilson Beavertail The Wilson Beavertail is a lot easier to install than the Brown, in my opinion. This is how I do it in my shop. You can see in Fig-1 that I remove the upper grip bushings to attach the Wilson Jig. You do not necessarily have to remove your grip bushings; if you desire there is another jig available in Brownells that attaches to frame without the removal of grip bushings. One note sometimes it is necessary to thin the sides and the bottom of the Beavertail in order for it to fit in frame. Once the jig is attached to the frame, you can see the excess material that must be removed, use either a belt sander or a file. I usually start with the belt sander, then progress to the file, untill I get very close to the jig. Once you get to this point, remove the jig and attempt to install the BT. If it still will not go, then remove more material around the whole radius you have been creating. Next start to work just on the top 1/3 of the radius you have created. The Wilson BT is designed 
so that the more it swings down the tighter it becomes. It is not the same radius around the thumb safety hole as is the Brown. What you are attempting to do at this time, is get the BT to look like Fig-3. Once you look like (Fig-3), then you will start the tap and file technique (Fig 4-5). What I do is tap the bottom of the BT with a nylon faced hammer lightly and then tap the top of the BT to release it; do this several times and the radius will mar in the places you must relieve next. You will notice in Fig-5 that I put my pointing finger right behind the BT. This is done so when I attempt to release the BT it will not travel to far up and mar the frame or distort the BT. Next after tapping remove the BT and see where material must be removed at this time. If only one side of the frame needs relieving, then only relieve on the one side with your file. I usually use a good triangle file for this, but any good file will work. This tap and file technique will have to be done many, many times until you look like (Fig-6). 
Once you get the BT to completely lower without sticking in the frame, then all you have left to do is align the arch of the frame, to match the BT. In my opinion, the Beavertail should look like an extension of the frame itself. Therefore the Beavertail should match the frames lines and as small a gap between the BT and the frame should be strived for. You can see in (Fig-6) that the lines of the frame do not mate with the Beavertail very well. Also you can see in (Fig-7) that the frame must be blended slightly to mate with the Beavertail better. I usually use a dremel tool with either a rotary stone or a sandpaper roll to match the lines of the frame and beavertail. Once you are almost done, polish it with a dremel and cratex bits. Cratex bits are polishing bits, with the consistancy of a pencil eraser that has polishing compound imbedded in it. The only thing left to do now is refinish. You can see the finished product in Fig 9 and10 minus the finish which is still needed.
so that the more it swings down the tighter it becomes. It is not the same radius around the thumb safety hole as is the Brown. What you are attempting to do at this time, is get the BT to look like Fig-3. Once you look like (Fig-3), then you will start the tap and file technique (Fig 4-5). What I do is tap the bottom of the BT with a nylon faced hammer lightly and then tap the top of the BT to release it; do this several times and the radius will mar in the places you must relieve next. You will notice in Fig-5 that I put my pointing finger right behind the BT. This is done so when I attempt to release the BT it will not travel to far up and mar the frame or distort the BT. Next after tapping remove the BT and see where material must be removed at this time. If only one side of the frame needs relieving, then only relieve on the one side with your file. I usually use a good triangle file for this, but any good file will work. This tap and file technique will have to be done many, many times until you look like (Fig-6). 
Once you get the BT to completely lower without sticking in the frame, then all you have left to do is align the arch of the frame, to match the BT. In my opinion, the Beavertail should look like an extension of the frame itself. Therefore the Beavertail should match the frames lines and as small a gap between the BT and the frame should be strived for. You can see in (Fig-6) that the lines of the frame do not mate with the Beavertail very well. Also you can see in (Fig-7) that the frame must be blended slightly to mate with the Beavertail better. I usually use a dremel tool with either a rotary stone or a sandpaper roll to match the lines of the frame and beavertail. Once you are almost done, polish it with a dremel and cratex bits. Cratex bits are polishing bits, with the consistancy of a pencil eraser that has polishing compound imbedded in it. The only thing left to do now is refinish. You can see the finished product in Fig 9 and10 minus the finish which is still needed. 
